ALL FOIL PRODUCTS ADVERTISED TO GO UNDER SLABS ARE WORTHLESS, ONLY HIGH DENSITY FOAM WILL WORK UNDER SLABS

WE HAVE SEEN THE KINKING PROBLEM COMPLETELY  ELIMINATED BY DELETING
THE TIES IN THE CORNERS AND BENDS IN SLABS

TIE WRAPS

DO NOT INSTALL MANIFOLDS OR FITTINGS BELOW THE TOP OF THE SLAB, SEE page 39
Tubing or fittings installed below the slab in a box or opening will require a jack hammer to repair later if the fittings leak.
Any copper installed below or in the concrete is against building codes. Concrete has a very corrosive effect on copper.

Garage floors and slabs are generally very easy to heat. The conductivity of concrete allows tubing to be spaced as far apart as 24 inches, although wider spacing could furnish enough heat, experience has shown that the output is too uneven.
SOME RULES TO FOLLOW
Run tubing parallel to the wall with the greatest heat loss
Direct the hot water to the area with the greatest heat loss first
Hold tubing back 18 ins. from all exterior walls
Space tubing on 6 to 12 ins. centers, the first two loops next to greatest heat loss
Tie tubing every 3 feet or less, using plastic tiewraps
Do not tie tubing in end of loop
Always use a vapor barrier under the slab
If using insulation under the slab, put vapor barrier under the insulation
Vapor barrier should go under footings also
If ground water comes within 3 feet of slab, insulate under slab
Edge insulation is
always required
Insulation on
outside of basement and footing walls is recommended
Leave the tubing and wire in bottom of slab, do not pull it up. See page 40
Use protective elbows when exiting slab
To go from one slab to another, dodge down into dirt and back up or sleeve the tubing
Do not over tighten ties. Do not use wire to tie the tubing.
If wheeling or pumping  protect the tubing with plywood